Day 1 Huaraz – Quebrada Llaca (Campo Base) – Campo Morena
We leave Huaraz (3100m) at 8.00am towards Llaca (4400m). The drive takes about 2 hours and we hope to be walking by 10.30am. The walk will also take roughly 2 hours. On arrival at our camp (4900m), a hot drink will be served and the climbing equipment explained and packed ready for the summit attempt. The glacier is only a 10 minute walk from our camp so clients have the opportunity to go to the beginning of the glacier in order to practice using the crampons. In the evening a hot meal will be served and clients are usually asleep by 7.30pm.
Day 2 Ice Climbing Course
We will wake at 7.00am, eat breakfast and set off at 8.00am. We will walk as far as the glacier in order to practice ice climbing techniques. By the end of this day clients will be prepared for climbing the mountain the following day.
We will cover
• Walking with crampons and ice-axe on the glacier
• Ice climbing (70° - 90° inclines)
• Rescue techniques for crevasses
This is only a taster course, and longer courses are also offered which cover these topics in greater depth.
Day 3 Campo Morena – Cumbre Vallunaraju – Campo Morena
We will wake up at 2.00am, drink a hot cup of tea and set off. We will quickly reach the glacier where everybody will put on crampons, gaiters, harnesses and helmets. The group will rope together and each person will take their ice axe in their hand. The walk over the glacier begins with gentle slopes. We will cross the glacier towards the left side of Vallunaraju Sur. At the col we climb the left summit, a slope with an incline of 40° - 45°. We should arrive at the summit between 7.00 and 9.00am.
On top of the mountain we will eat a small breakfast, enjoy a hot drink and take in the impressive views of Huantsan, Tocllaraju, Palcaraju, Occshapalca, Ranrapalca and the vast Cordillera Blanca behind them. The time spent on the summit depends primarily on the temperature and weather conditions. We return via the same route to the moraine camp where we should arrive between 9.00 and 11.00am. The clients can decide whether they prefer to return to Huaraz on the second day or to spend one more night and return at leisure on the third day.
Day 4 (Optional) Campo Moreno – Quebrada Llaca (Campo Base) – Huaraz
After a final breakfast together we will pack up and begin the return journey at around 8.00am. We will walk back to the same point as that where the hike began. Here the taxi will be waiting and at around 10.00am we will drive back to Huaraz. Expected arrival time is midday.
Does not include
- Lunch, dinner and snacks day 1
- Breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks day 2
- Breakfast, lunch and snacks day 3
- Camping and climbing equipment
- First aid kit
- Private transport
- Entrance to the national park
- Accident insurance
- Porter (50 dollars per day)
For this climb, clients will have to carry their own rucksacks as far as moraine camp. Throughout the climb, the following items should be ready to hand:
If you would like to modify this plan, please do not hesitate to contact me.
- Sun glasses
- Rain poncho
- Warm jacket
- Packed lunch (provided)